Sunday morning we were off by 07.30 heading north back over the Pennines, up to Glasgow, by Loch Lomond and on to Rannoch Moor and Glencoe. We made loch lomond by lunchtime, found a layby to brew up in and have lunch. This was the beginning of the serious Oooo-Aaaaah time! The mountains are completely amazing! So are the moors ... dark, wild, full of wyrd, a place of the Old Ones, the ancient gods, the ones from far before the later gods we know now, the time of even before Math ap Mathonwy, the times of Beli Mawr, Beli the Great, who I know through the Sun. Crossing Rannoch Moor that afternoon, heading for the King's House, we passed through dark lands full of water and peat bog, not an easy place to walk if we had had to but one that would swallow you whole without a second glance. Some folk would be terrified but really want the chance to walk there - with due care, attention and a map! To sleep out in that ancient land, in the hand of the gods, to wake in the night an...